Pack Forest - Little Mashel Falls & Hugo Peak

Our Hiking Time: 4h
Total Ascent: 1300ft
Highest Point: 1728ft
Total Distance: 7.0 miles
Location: N 46° 50.5560, W 122° 17.5080
Required Permit: None
Difficulty: Moderate

This week we headed out to Pack Forest, an old favorite from our childhood. It had been years since we wandered along Pack Forest’s trails and we thought it would make for a decent winter hike. After doing a little research and plotting out a rough route, we packed up and headed out to Eatonville.

In the 1920s, Charles Lathrop Pack was one of the richest men in the United States. His wealth was built on timber and real estate, and in 1926, he gave the University of Washington College of Forest Resources enough cash to purchase 334 acres of forestland. The Charles L. Pack Experimental Forest was born. Today, Pack Forest has grown to a sprawling 4,300 acres, dedicated to forestry research, education, and recreation. With more than 50 miles of lowland trails, Pack Forest attracts hikers, bikers, equestrians, and hunters year-round.

Our first destination was Hugo Peak, the highest point in Pack Forest, named for a former dean of the College of Forestry, Hugo A. Winkenwerder. The Hugo Peak Trail begins at the Gatehouse and heads somewhat steeply up the mountainside. At just over 1700ft, Hugo Peak is not exactly imposing, but the rough and narrow trail is a little overgrown in places, making the ascent a little more challenging. The route cuts across a few trails and roads along the way, including the 1000 Road, a large loop open to vehicle traffic during the week. If you choose, you can cut out the lower section of the Hugo Peak Trail and just pick up the trail along the 1000 Road.

Near the top, the trail suddenly changes into Road 1081, and you are soon at a somewhat confusing intersection. Head uphill to find the small, grassy clearing that is Hugo Peak. Over the years, trees have grown to block out most of the view. Currently, the view is limited to a narrow opening in trees looking north toward the surrounding valleys. Take in the view, sign the summit register, and head back down to the intersection.

Our next destination was the waterfalls along the Little Mashel River, which are in the northern section of the park. To get there, just head downhill on Road 1080 toward Kirkland Pass, where most of the park’s major roads meet. If you have some extra time, take a short stroll through the Trail of the Giants, a walk through a section of Pack Forest’s old growth. From Kirkland Pass, the more direct route is to follow Road 1000 east to connect with Road 1070 and eventually the Falls Trail. However, if you are looking for more trail time, you can take the Reservoir Trail which heads north and eventually leads to Road 1000.

Whichever way you go, you will soon be walking down Road 1070 to the Falls Trail, which leads down into a canyon carved by the Little Mashel River. There are three waterfalls to see: starting with Tom Tom Falls, then Little Mashel Falls (often referred to as Bridal Veil Falls), and finally Lower Little Mashel Falls. The Falls Trail skips Tom Tom Falls, though you can catch glimpses of it by wandering a bit offtrail. The wide path quickly descends toward the river, with side trails branching off for views of the falls.

Follow the first branch for Little Mashel Falls, the largest of the three waterfalls. You’ll have a choice between exploring the upper falls or the lower, we recommend you start with the upper, which takes you to the wide, flat rocks above the falls. This is the perfect place to settle down for lunch or a snack. If you prefer a closer look at Little Mashel Falls, take the steep trail down to the river. The trail can be very slippery, so use caution as you approach the falls. During the summer when the river flow is a little lighter, you can easily climb over the rocks and walk behind the falls. Again, the rocks are often slick, so be careful when clambering around beneath the waterfall.

To reach the final waterfall, Lower Little Mashel Falls, head back to the main Falls Trail and continue downward to the next branch. This trail is very overgrown, rough, and often muddy. Expect to be climbing over blowdowns and fallen logs. The trail ends in an overlook of the multi-tiered Lower Mashel Falls, which are easily worth the extra effort to see them. After you’ve had your fill, head back out to Road 1000 and follow it back to the Gatehouse.

Pack Forest is always open, and almost always free of snow in the winter. While some of the trails can be a little challenging, forest roads can take a hiker nearly anywhere in the park. With minimal elevation gain and easy access, this is a great pick for winter walks, hiking with youngsters or bringing out the dog for an adventure. We suggest that you bring along a map, as the multiple roads and trails can be confusing, and maps are not always available from the Gatehouse in the winter. If you make it out to Pack Forest, we highly recommend you take the time to head out to the waterfalls, which are well worth the trip.

To get there, take I-5 South to Tacoma, taking Exit 127 for Highway 512. In about two miles, take the State Route 7 exit toward Spanaway. Continue on SR 7 for roughly 22 miles to the signed entrance to the University of Washington Pack Forest on the left. -Nathan

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Glacier Vista Snowshoe at Paradise Mt. Rainier

Our Hiking Time: 1h 20m
Total Ascent: 900ft
Highest Point: 6400ft
Total Distance: 2.5 miles
Location: N 46° 48.0960, W 121° 44.0880
Required Permit: National Park Pass
Difficulty: Moderate

On a sunny weekend a few weeks ago, we packed up our snowshoes and headed out with a few destinations in mind. After some discussion, we decided to indulge our nostalgia and drive the extra distance to visit Paradise on the slopes of Mt. Rainier. It was from the parking lots around Paradise that we began our assent to the summit back in 2008, and we had not been back since. We were long overdue.

In 1885, a member of the Longmire family visited a flower-covered valley on a sunny day, and christened it Paradise. While there is some debate as to whether it was Virinda or Martha Longmire who came up with the name, no one is arguing its accuracy: the allure of Paradise has drawn millions of people to the area over the years. Reliable roads did not reach the area until 1915, but commerce quickly followed and in July 1917, the Paradise Inn was opened. Independently operated until it was sold to the Park Service in 1952, the Inn has welcomed guests nearly every year since it opened. In 1966 the Paradise Visitor Center was opened and later renamed in 1987 for Senator Henry M. Jackson to honor his efforts to support Rainier National Park. If you haven’t been to Paradise in a few years, you’ll find a new Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center to greet you, which opened in 2008. The original “sunken Space Needle” building was demolished in 2009.

Glacier Vista is a treat in both the summer and the winter. It is an easy hike during the summer months, following the Skyline Trail through alpine meadows brimming with wildflowers, past pines and hemlocks dwarfed by the altitude. In the winter, the snowshoe route is a little more challenging. Some of the challenge comes from the added effort, but route finding can also be an issue. On the upside, if you’re there on a low avalanche danger day, it will be easy to find a route already cut through the powder. If you’re breaking trail, start to the west of the sledding area, heading upwards toward the tree-covered rise known as Alta Vista. We recommend you bear to the left around the knoll as it is less difficult, but either approach will get you there. Continue to parallel the Nisqually Glacier for about a mile-and-a-half to a broad flat area. This is Glacier Vista.

From this vantage point you can take in the massive Nisqually Glacier as well as the Nisqually Valley spreading out below. Rising above the parking lot to the south, a jagged ridgeline marks the beginning of the Tatoosh range, with prominences including Pinnacle Peak, Castle Peak, and Plummer Peak. Beyond, you can pick out the snow-topped Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens. If you’re feeling like stretching your legs more, continue to follow the Skyline trail up to Panorama Point, to get a better view of the landscape.

Paradise is the perfect destination for exploring with youngsters or test driving that new pair of snowshoes. Many of the trails are paved, making the lower trail network friendly to strollers and wheelchairs in the summer months. Of course, expect a lot of company when visiting Paradise, though the traffic quickly dwindles as you head uphill and out to Glacier Vista or Panorama Point. If you’ve never been up to Paradise, we highly recommend you make the trip this year. One word of caution if you’re planning a winter visit – make sure to check the avalanche danger and keep an eye on the weather, which can change extremely quickly.

To get there, take I-5 South to Tacoma, taking Exit 127 for Highway 512. In about two miles, take the State Route 7 exit toward Spanaway. Continue on SR 7 for about 30 miles to the junction with SR 706 in Elbe. Keep to the left and follow SR 706 a little under 15 miles to the park entrance. From the gate, it is another 14 miles to the Paradise parking area. - Nathan

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Franklin Ghost Town & Cemetery

Our Hiking Time: 1h 30m
Total Ascent: 300ft
Highest Point: 800ft
Total Distance: 2.2 miles
Location: N 47° 17.5980, W 121° 58.0860
Required Permit: None
Difficulty: Easy

Continuing this winter’s theme of visiting ghost towns and abandoned places, we recently explored the Franklin Townsite near Black Diamond. Like many former mining communities in Washington, much of the once-bustling town is now gone, much of it reclaimed by nature. Still, enough cement and metal remains to hint at the coal-centered community that called Franklin home for more than 30 years.

Sometime in the late 1880s, those that were mining coal in Black Diamond branched out to the Green River and began work in the hills around Franklin. Connected by railroad to the rest of the world in 1885, the post office soon followed in 1886. Labor disputes intensified in May 1891, when hundreds of African-American miners were recruited from the Midwest to replace striking white miners. Unfortunately, the new arrivals were not told about the strike, and upon arrival were issued a firearm supposedly as a defense against local Native Americans. Tensions quickly mounted and two died in the resulting riot, which was only quelled in July when Governor Elisha Ferry called in the National Guard.

In 1894, Franklin was rocked by the second worst mining disaster in Washington’s history. Thirty-seven miners suffocated when a coal fire broke in the mine. Miscommunication and poor management led first to the shutdown of the fan that supplied air to the miners, then to opening doors that changed the airflow in the mineshaft. This trapped the coal smoke 1000ft below the surface and killed the miners. Later, evidence surfaced that the fire was intentionally set, though the arsonist was among those that perished. At the turn of the century as oil continued to replace coal, demand fell and families began to leave Franklin. The post office closed in 1916 and mining largely ceased by 1919. World War II created enough demand for coal that the Palmer Coking Company sporadically mined around Franklin from the late 1940s until 1971 when the coal car bridge spanning the Green River was dynamited and removed. Today, the Black Diamond Historical Society leads tours of Franklin, and cleanup efforts by local school and scout troops keep the area accessible.

The trickiest part of a trek to Franklin is finding it. Although the Franklin Townsite is owned by King County Parks, there is no motorized access and there is not much in the way of parking. Access is located just before you cross the Green River Gorge Bridge, marked by chain-link gate covered in No Parking Signs. There is room for one vehicle on the opposite side of the road a little closer to the bridge. If that is taken, most people drive down to a little cemetery a quarter-mile or so back toward Black Diamond. Once you’re parked, head back to the chain-link fence, you can see a yellow gate in the distance, which is the beginning of King County Park Property. The property in between is private, but King County has an easement along the road, so just stick to the gravel road and head toward the gate.

Things are easy once on the trail. Head up to a signed junction complete with an ore cart donated by the Palmer Coking Company. Veer left for the mine and cemetery. While there are some foundations on the right, you need permission from Palmer before doing much in the way of exploring on their land.

Brush past sword fern and salal as you follow the road up to the mineshaft. Dropping 1300ft into the ground, the shaft was popular amongst spelunkers and other explorers, but after a couple of accidents, the state sealed the shaft in the 80s. After you’ve taken a moment to drop a few rocks down the pit, move on toward the cemetery. The trail is a little rougher here and not quite as wide, but it is still an easy stroll to the ivy-covered cemetery. Along the way, you’ll pass a section of rusting trestle that once supported the eight-inch wooden pipe that supplied water to the town. Without much warning, you will suddenly notice a few marble tombstones rising out of the brush. Take a moment to explore and reflect on the community that once thrived here.

Franklin is a fun little adventure on those days that you cannot make it out to the mountains. While it is not exactly a traditional hike, it is a walk steeped in the history of this state. Its obscurity and somewhat confusing access makes it likely that you’ll have the ghost town to yourself and lends a feeling of remoteness. There is also much more to explore in Franklin – it’s possible to head down to the site of the coal bridge or get permission from Palmer to hike to the top of Franklin Hill. A day spent tromping around Franklin is well worth the trip.

To get there, take I-5 South to 405. Take Exit 4 off 405 onto SR 169. Follow SR 169 for 18 miles into Black Diamond to Lawson St. Take a left and follow Lawson as it changes into Green River Gorge Road. About three-and-a-half miles from Black Diamond as the road bends toward the Green River Gorge Bridge, find a chain-link gate on the right. This is the access point. Find parking on the roadside or at the nearby cemetery. -Nathan

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Skookum Falls via Skookum Flats Trail #1194

Our Hiking Time: 2h 15m
Total Ascent: 400ft
Highest Point: 2500ft
Total Distance: 5 miles
Location: N 47° 3.0240, W 121° 34.5540
Required Permit: Northwest Forest Pass
Difficulty: Easy

Over the years, we’ve driven down Highway 410 many, many times. On almost all of these excursions, we pass the little roadside pullout perched on the banks of the White River. Invariably, the viewpoint is populated with a few parked cars and some curious travelers craning to get a good look at Skookum Falls as it tumbles 250ft over a cliff and down toward the river. Recently, we decided it was time to stop passing the waterfall by and finally went to get a closer look, along the Skookum Flats Trail #1194.

“Skookum” is a popular adjective in Chinook Jargon. It can mean many different things depending on the context, though it is usually positive. Associated with strength and power, it is likely that the waterfall was named for its height and impressive flow during the annual snowmelt. For veterans of this trail, the suspension bridge that once connected Skookum Flats to the Buck Creek Trail #1169 is still out. The Forest Service has yet to replace the bridge since it was destroyed by a storm in the winter of 2006.

The route meanders alongside the White River on its way to Skookum Creek. As the name suggests, Skookum Flats involves little in the way of elevation gain, instead it takes a hiker on a gentle tour beneath looming Douglas fir, past mossy rocks and fallen trees, while providing ample opportunity to take in the river and the Snoquera Palisades. The popular trail is wide and flat, free of rocks and roots. Its popularity also ensures that windfalls and debris felled by the storms that frequent the area are quickly removed.

At about the two-mile mark, the sound of rushing water begins to overpower the noise of the river. Catch glimpses of falling water through the leaves as you approach Skookum Creek. Just across the water, a sign points uphill with the simple word “Falls.” The bootpath up to the base of the Skookum Falls is rough and spray from the falls can make the path slick. Use caution if you choose to get a closer look. If you’re craving some more distance, you can continue on another two miles to the end of the trail and the site of the bridge washout.

The low elevation of this trail makes it an ideal hike in the winter when other trails are buried under the snow. However, if you want to see the waterfall flowing in full force, you’re better off coming in the late spring during the melt. Of course, the ease of this trail makes it a good choice for young hikers as well as trail running. If you’re heading out to Skookum Flats, keep in mind the trail also very popular with mountain bikers, so be ready to share the trail during the summer.

To get there, take I-5 south to Highway 18 Exit 142A. Follow Highway 18 into Auburn and take the SR 164 exit. Head left on SR 164 through Enumclaw to SR 410. Head left onto SR 410 for 25 miles to Huckleberry Creek Road (FR 73). Turn right onto FR 73 and follow for a half-mile to the trailhead on the left just beyond the bridge. -Nathan

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