Lake of the Angels via Putvin Trail #813

Our Hiking Time: 6h 45m
Total Ascent: 3400ft
Highest Point: 4950ft
Total Distance: 7 miles
Location: N 47° 35.8200, W 123° 16.3440
Difficulty: Hard



We headed back over to the Olympic Peninsula to take on a famously obscure hike of legendary proportions. With names like the Valley of Heaven and St. Peter’s Gate, we anticipated a trip to the Lake of Angels would be stunning – and it delivered.

There is more than one way to reach the Lake of Angels, though the route we chose along the Carl Putvin Trail #813 is the most direct and frequently used approach. The trail runs right past its namesake’s grave, and probably because he died at such a young age, folks are pretty curious about what happened to the 21-year-old Carl Putvin. There are a lot of different stories out there, though all seem to agree that he died during the winter, a victim of the elements. Some say the trapper was headed to get medicine for his sick daughter, others say he was simply found frozen, sitting by the side of the trail. We’ve decided to go with his great-granddaughter’s version: Putvin left the family cabin near the Lake of Angels to get supplies from Eldon and along the way a tree fell on him, pinning him under it. Either the impact of the tree or the elements ended his short life in January of 1913. He left behind a wife and son.

From the trailhead the route immediately plunges into the trees, following Boulder Creek up past Putvin’s grave and winding past ancient moss-covered boulders. Here a forest of pine and hemlock rises out of a thick layer of salal and huckleberry, occasionally thinning to allow glimpses of Mount Pershing and Jefferson Ridge on the far side of the Hamma Hamma Valley. The trail continues to gain elevation at a fairly steady pace, though there are a few ups and downs involved when navigating a couple of large gullies that streams have carved into the mountainside. After about a mile and a half you will find yourself on the remains of an abandoned forest road in front of a small registration station. From here, the real work begins.

Start your ascent, and be prepared for a workout. The trail is not only steep; it is also rougher than the trail below, adding to the challenge. Soon the trail ushers you into the Mt. Skokomish Wilderness and the sounds of Whitehorse Creek. As you switchback ever-upwards, breaks in the treeline offer views of Mt. Skokomish, towering over the rocky headwall you will need to clamber up to reach the Valley of Heaven. Depending on the time of year, your efforts will be rewarded with increasingly better views of the creek tumbling down the headwall into a broad alder-filled plateau before disappearing into the trees below.

After a bit of scrambling you’ll stumble into subalpine meadows, crossing slow creeks and passing The Pond of the False Prophet – a large pond one might mistake for the Lake of Angels in the fevered hope that the journey is at an end. While close, press onward to the Olympic National Park boundary, and the last series of steep switchbacks up an avalanche chute to the Valley of Heaven. Here, the Lake of Angels is gently cupped in a cirque between Mt. Skokomish and Mt. Stone, fed by the snowfields the cling to the craggy ridgeline the connects the two mountains. Expect to run into some wildlife up here, mountain goats and marmots are common. Settle in and enjoy a little slice of heaven.

While we highly recommend this hike, it’s definitely not for the unprepared. It’s not the most difficult hike we’ve ever done, but the Lake of Angels was certainly challenging to get to. At the same time, many guidebooks give the impression that this trail requires some serious mountaineering skills to tackle – this is not the case. While there is one very small section that will probably require you to use some handholds to help you climb up the roots and rocks, that’s as harrowing as it gets. If you’re a strong hiker and are looking for something a little out of the ordinary, this is definitely a trail to check out. There are a few wilderness campsites around the lake, making an overnight an easy option. From the lake there is access to a variety of destinations including Hagen Lake or Mt. Stone and the Stone Ponds via a pass known as St. Peter’s Gate.

To get there, take I-5 south to Olympia to Exit 104 toward Aberdeen and Port Angles. Follow US 101 along Hood Canal almost 49 miles through Shelton and Hoodsport to FR 25, also known as the Hamma Hamma River Road. Take a left and follow the road 12 miles to the trailhead just beyond Boulder Creek. The last five miles of the road are unpaved and have seen some washouts. A high clearance vehicle is recommended. Northwest Forest Pass required. -Nathan


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Upper Royal Basin via Royal Creek Trail #832

Our Hiking Time: 12h
Total Ascent: 3000ft
Highest Point: 5700ft
Total Distance: 16 miles
Location: N 47° 49.2780, W 123° 13.1160
Difficulty: Moderate



It has been a long time coming, but this week we finally hopped a ferry and did our first hike in the Olympics. Despite the logistical hassle of ferries and extra driving time, we were excited to explore some new territory. We decided to start with the heavily traveled and ever-popular Royal Basin, one of the jewels of the Olympic National Park’s rain shadow region.

Named in 1890 by the O'Neil Expedition, the creek, lake and basin were all dubbed “royal” for reasons lost to the whimsy of exploratory christenings. Since that time, thousands of feet have packed down trail roughly following the creek to its source at Royal Lake.

The trail begins at Upper Dungeness Trailhead, a parking area along Forest Road 2860 near the Dungeness River. Climb up the Dungeness River Trail through looming moss-covered firs and thick underbrush for about a mile to a junction pointing you toward Royal Basin. Sheltered under the thick forest canopy begin the long trek to the lake alongside the constant burbling of Royal Creek, your companion for nearly the entire journey.

As you progress the forest will occasionally open, revealing glimpses of nearby peaks lining the valley. On our trip, avalanches had re-graded sections of the trail, obscuring the trail, and forcing us to find creative ways around the debris that had tumbled down the mountain. Streams both small and large cut across the trail, often snaking down narrow grass-filled valleys invariably filled with small herds of deer.

The mild grade is occasionally interspersed with a short set of switchbacks, though eventually the trail flattens out into expansive meadows before hitting the last and most strenuous portion of the hike. Push through the final series of switchbacks to reach the lakeshore. Royal Lake sits directly beneath Mt. Clark, with Mt. Deception looming over the far end of the lake. For those feeling like a little extra adventure, a footpath leads around the lake and gives access to the upper basin at the base of Mt. Deception. Whether you are spending the night just out on an extended dayhike, find a quiet space to take in the panorama and settle in.

This is an excellent hike, one that we recommend you consider for a weekend backpack. The distance from Seattle and the length of the hike makes this a very long day if you’re not planning on an overnight. Though, on a sunny day the Royal Creek Valley is picturesque in and of itself, making a shortened version of this hike well worth the effort. Although definitely a popular and well-known hike, we did not encounter that many people along the way. In fact, we ran into more wildlife than people – not only a countless number of deer, but marmots and a few close encounters with black bears as well.

To get there, take the Bainbrige Island Ferry, following State Route 305 through Poulsbo to State Route 3. Follow SR 3 to the Hood Canal Bridge, taking a left over the bridge onto State Route 104. Follow SR 104 as it merges onto US 101 and continue another 18 miles and turn left onto left on Palo Alto Road. From here, take a right onto FR 2880 near the Dungeness River. Continue just under two miles to FR 2870. Head left and follow for six-and-a-half miles to the trailhead. Northwest Forest Pass required. -Nathan


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Blanca Lake Trail #1052

Our Hiking Time: 4h 40m
Total Ascent: 3400ft (2700ft in and 700ft out)
Highest Point: 4700ft
Total Distance: 7.5 miles
Location: N 47° 56.0760, W 121° 20.5920
Difficulty: Hard



The bright blue skies of a September weekend were enough to push us to tackle an alpine lake that’s been on our list for years: Blanca Lake. The hike is known for the vivid colors of the lakewater and a relentless series of switchbacks gaining nearly 3000ft in three miles. We expected a challenge and Blanca Lake delivered.

Nestled in the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness at the bottom of a cirque formed by Kyes, Monte Cristo, and Columbia Peaks, Lake Blanca is something of a hidden treasure. At least it was at some point. Today the Blanca Lake Trail #1052 is very popular, drawing dozens of hikers down miles of gravel forest roads every weekend.

The trail beings pleasantly enough, gliding quickly through forests of hemlock and sword fern. Within a few tenths of a mile you enter the Wild Sky Wilderness and the trail quickly steepens, signaling the beginning of the three mile ascent. Surprisingly, the trail is well-maintained here, largely free of the jutting rocks and roots more typical of trails in the area. As you climb, the water-loving ferns slowly recede and are replaced with heartier huckleberry, eventually yielding to lush meadows at the top.

While the lower trail is completely tree-covered, the meadows offer your legs some respite and some of the first views of the hike. On a good day, you’ll see Glacier Peak looming in the near distance through the occasional break in the treeline. Once you push through the meadows to the top of the saddle and some of the best vistas, the trail begins a fairly steep descent down to the lakeshore. The route drops about 600ft, quickly passing Virgin Lake and a host of decent campsites following a much rougher and narrower trail. The expected jumble of rocks and roots are in full attendance, making the path a little more slippery and precarious. Luckily, the Washington Trail Association was already on the scene doing some trail work to make the hike more navigable.

The trail spills you out at the top of the cirque, the vibrant green-blue waters of Blanca Lake standing out in sharp contrast to the sheer granite walls surrounding the lake. The snowfield in the distance is Columbia Glacier, which fuels the lake with run-off and glacial silt, helping to give the lake its distinctive color. While most folks end the hike here, we suggest you continue down the trail to the lakeshore and Blanca’s outlet, Troublesome Creek. Supposedly the trail continues around the lake to the Glacier, though it requires fording Troublesome Creek. Starting from the creek and running clockwise, the ridgeline climbs up Columbia Peak, then to Monte Cristo Peak just to the right of the glacier before running into the imposing crags of Kyes Peak. Claim some space and take it all in. Or, if you’re thirsty for adventure and you feel very confident in your rock climbing skills, you can clamber down the rocks along Troublesome Creek to Blanca Lake Falls, a reportedly enormous series of waterfalls, some dropping hundreds of feet to the rocks below.

We recommend this hike for most hikers, though some will find the elevation gain a little too taxing. Of course, as we mentioned, Lake Blanca attracts quite a few hikers, and you can expect quite a bit of company when you make the trek. However, this isn’t a hike to do early in the season to avoid the crowds, as the lake needs to thaw in order to reveal its trademark colors. This is definitely a destination for those hikers looking for something a little different – Lake Blanca is not your typical alpine lake.

To get there, take Highway 2 out past Skykomish to milepost 50. Take a left onto FR 65, also known as the Beckler River Road. Continue for almost seven miles to a junction and pavement end. From here continue north for just under six miles to a 5-way intersection known as Jack Pass. Take the second left and continue two-and-a-half miles to FR 63. Turn right and drive two miles to the trailhead. Northwest Forest Pass required. -Nathan


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Jolly Mountain Trail #1307 - Shortcut

Our Hiking Time: 4h
Total Ascent: 1800ft
Highest Point: 6433ft
Total Distance: 7.5 miles
Location: N 47° 23.0220, W 121° 1.2900
Difficulty: Moderate



This week we headed over Snoqualmie Pass to continue exploring the Teanaway area. After flipping through some guidebooks and doing a little research online, we set our sights on Jolly Mountain. With clear skies overhead we geared up and headed up the trail toward great views and the remains of a fire lookout.

There are a number of approaches to Jolly Mountain. The more traditional approach is via the Jolly Mountain Trail #1307, a 12 mile route through pine forest climbing over 4000ft along the way. We decided to take a shortcut to shave off some of that distance and elevation by following logging roads halfway up the mountainside. While shorter, the shortcut is somewhat less scenic, as it involves hiking along forest roads and traversing a few clearcuts. Still, the views from the summit are the real price of this hike, and the shortcut delivers you to those views quickly.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t determine how the mountain came to be known as Jolly, though we assume there is probably a good story behind it. Between the railroads and the Forest Service, fire spotters were camping on Jolly Mountain’s summit by 1916, though it would be five more years before permanent cabin would be constructed. In 1936, the cabin was replaced and remained standing for over 30 years before it was destroyed in 1968. Today, lingering pieces of rusting metal and some carefully arranged rocks are the only remains of the lookout.

The shortcut begins by following FR 4315 as far up the mountain as possible. There are two gates along the road, if the first one is locked, you’re better off taking the traditional approach rather than hiking up miles of steep forest road. For us, we were stopped and the second gate, which left only about a mile of road to deal with before connecting up with the Sasse Mountain Trail #1340 and ascending the ridge. The route has a number of ups and downs, so be prepared for something of a workout. And, while hiking through clearcuts isn’t typically something we look forward to doing, in this case they provided a great preview to the vistas that awaiting you at the summit.

There are a number of trail junctions along this route which can potentially cause some confusion. To avoid getting turned around, stick to the Sasse Mountain Trail until is connects with Jolly Mountain Trail #1307. Here, head uphill and stay on the Jolly Mountain Trail until you reach the summit and its impressive 360-degree views. You’ll be able to easily pick out Mt. Rainier, Glacier Peak, Mt. Adams, Mt. Stuart and Mt. Daniel. Some of Jolly’s neighbors are also in attendance, including Sasse Mountain and Skookum Peak. Plan on spending some time here soaking up these expansive views.

While a shortcut, this route is still a little hard on the knees, so we don’t recommend it for everyone. However, the views rank among some of the best we’ve ever seen, making it more than worth the effort to get to the top. Much like Hex Mountain, this is not a wildly popular hike, typically seeing more traffic during the winter months, so you’re unlikely to run into too many other hikers. However, both the Sasse Mountain Trail and the Jolly Mountain Trail are open to both motorcyclists and horseback riding, so be prepared to share the trail.

To get there, take I-90 to Exit 80. Head left over the freeway following Bullfrog Road to SR 903. Follow 903 a little over 18 miles through Roslyn and along Cle Elum Lake to FR 4315. The road is not well signed, if you hit the Salmon La Sac Guard Station, you’ve gone too far. Once you find FR 4315, take a right and follow it about six miles as it switchbacks up the mountainside to a locked gate. Park and head up the road to connect with the Sasse Mountain Trail. –Nathan

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